Turkish TV in Morocco

 

The Turkish title of this soap  is Hanımın Çiftliği or Lady's Farm. In Arabic it is called Matensanich (Don't Forget Me). 

Everywhere I went, all the women and some of the men stopped what they're doing when it was time to watch Kholoud, the Arabic name given to the much-put-upon heroine of this limited run Turkish soap opera. Dubbed into Arabic and technically know as a telenovela, it is the serialization of a novel by the Turkish author Orhan Kemal. The series ran for a little under 2 years, and I have to admit that I got hooked. 

The story arcs were generally  short--often just 5 or 6 episodes--with kidnappings, murders, extortion, and adultery being ever so popular. Victims at death's door from being shot, stabbed or beaten on Monday  were totally healed by Friday.  One kidnapper who was shot in the leg, limped around for maybe 4 episodes and then just got over it, without any medical treatment whatsoever, simply because he had more a lot more bad guy stuff to do before finally getting caught and committing suicide.

The over the top melodrama and simplicity of the story lines made it perfect for someone with limited Arabic language skills. Just like a small child, if I couldn't figure out the words, all I had to do was look at the pictures.

The end of the series came with all story lines feeding into that of Khadijah, the  evil former sister-in-law, whose only purpose in life was to kill, betray, sabotage or destroy everything and everyone Kholoud loved.  And how often have I wanted to know what happened to the characters after the end of the story? The finale, which aired just before Ramadan, showed  all  of the characters 10 years down the road.

The Turkish series was so popular in Morocco, I've seen little girls dressed in Kholoud t-shirts. Kholoud shows up in songs. The series was so popular, in fact, that it has just started all over again. I started watching the series near it's end, so the genesis of the storyline is new to me.  I just saw episode 3 tonight.  I know a lot of Morocco is watching with me.

The Pay-As-You-Go Moroccan Wedding





The costs of a Muslim wedding fall to the groom and his family, not to the bride and her family. In Morocco, wedding planning includes food, musicians, waiters...sounds familiar, right?  Once the prices have been negotiated and the money has been paid, it's time to enjoy the event?  Wrong.  All the money spent beforehand seems to have nothing to do with the amount the family is expected to spend while the ceremony is going on.

 

Here is an example: wedding singers accompany the groom, his family, and his gifts to the bride through the streets to the tent where the bride and guests await.  Each of the singers, perhaps 4, 6, or 8 of them, expect 20, 50 or 100 dirham bills will be places into their shirt collars several times along the route.

 

The Moroccan wedding singers are in the foreground.  One of the musicians is seated behind and one of the wedding ladies is the green dress

 

Pay each of the musicans liberally throughout the evening.  And all of the waiters as they bring and remove each course.

 





Don't forget the guys who may herald the approach of the wedding couple, and who will carry the bride and groom on their shoulders while doing a little dance step of their own.  Money in the collars right now, please.  After all, they are holding your child in the air.

 

 

They carry the groom on their shoulders throughout the tent while turning and waving their capes in time to the music

 

 

Pay the wedding ladies, or neggafates, who dress the bride through all of her dress changes and make sure every fold and drape and line on both the bride and the groom is perfect for picture-taking.

 

 

The wedding lady arranges the brides dress just so





Satisfied, she moves to the rear so the bride can be held aloft.

 

Then there's the photographer, the videographer...am I leaving anybody out?

 

You may as well be good-natured about it all.  You can't be stingy.  The denominations are color-coded so everyone can see at a glance how much you're shelling out.

 

Besides, the guests are free to stick money in collars, and they do.  They also compliment each other by giving money the same way to other guests who cut a fine figure on the dance floor. 

 

Relax.  Enjoy.  Dance.  Eat.  Get into as many of the pictures being taken as you can.  Just bring several thousand dhirham with you.  In small bills.

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 



Cooking and Eating Out in Morocco

The owner of this 5 burner stove spends a minimum of 4 hours in  the kitchen daily

One of the most striking things about Moroccan people is that they while the love most things American, they have not embraced our fast food culture.  Meals are prepared all day, every day from scratch.  Most women bake their on bread several times a week.  For mid-morning and mid-afternoon snacks, there is tea time at home.  Shops will close and schools empty as workers, teachers and students go on break at midday.  Families eat most of their meals together--breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Moroccan women spend 4 to 6 hours in the kitchen everyday, more if there is a special occasion such as an engagement party, or if relatives have come to town to stay for a few days.  At such times, the women will divide the tasks and work together.  For all-out shindigs like weddings, they will hire extra women and rent restaurant-size pots and serving platters.



Left over from party preparation: a propane tank, one of the stand-alone burners, and assorted pots that were too large to fit on the stove.

Prep time takes longer when everything is made from scratch. Fruits and vegetable are generally fresh, in season, not frozen or canned.  You want green beans?  You have to snap them.  Peas?  You get to shell them.  Think you'll want strawberries this winter?  I hope you remember to freeze some last spring.  The incentive to do-it-yourself is simple economics: frozen foods cost probably 3 times as much as fresh.  Who can afford that on a regular basis?

When you travel to someone's home, they would never presume that you picked up a burger and fries along the way.  They will immediately serve you tea or coffee, breads and pastries.  Then they will cook a big meal.  Then they will feed you more tea, coffee, breads or pastries to send you on your way.

Don't get me wrong, stores sell plenty of chocolate, chips and soda.  You can find all sorts of restaurants and American fast-food franchises.  There are desert shops that sell cake by the slice along with banana and avacado smoothies. There are lots of reputable street vendors whose wares are, fortunately, much better than those of  Terry Pratchett's Dibbler.  But generally speaking, there are only 3 reasons for eating out: as a necessity, as a special occasion, or as an unconscionable waste of money. 

So if you feel that cooking is a big headache, then come as a visitor.  If you're planning to stay in Morocco, you better bring your apron.

Casablanca to Rabat, Part 1

Rabat is just an hour away from Casablanca.  In theory.  Our trip started, of course, with leaving the house.  The house in Casablanca was on an inlet by the ocean.   Getting from the house to the main street to catch a taxi is about  mile walk.  There were 5 of us, counting an infant, and the small taxis in the area are only licensed to carry 3 people.  We had to split up and get 2 cabs. Given the traveller's law, which I just made up,  only one group got a taxi  immediately. It took a while to regroup at the bus station downtown.

Pleasantly, the bus ride to Rabat really did take only about an hour.  Outside the bus station, there was a long line of taxis.  Small taxis.  So we went down the block, around the corner, and to the end of that block where there was a group of large taxis.  Large  taxi's typically carry however many they can squeeze in. 

Ours took the 5 of us plus a man and another woman.  The baby, 3 women and the guy were in back.  Two of us shared the one seat in the front.  I have to give the driver credit:  he was able to shift gears the whole way without touching me, although I was practically on top of the gear box.


Then we came to an unexpected stop on the side of the road.  The driver got out to look at his engine.  The man in the back got out and flagged down another taxi.  Fortunately, we were back on the road in short order.  We even managed to pass the taxi carrying  the deserter-- the former male passenger from our cab.  Our driver yelled out to him and the man replied, both laughing as we sped by.

I thought we had reached our destination,  butwe got out of the taxi and just stood on the sidewalk for a minute.  It turned out, we had not actually reached our  destination at all.  We crossed the street and got into a horse-drawn carriage.  We clomped along in  the surrey with the fringe on top  for a few blocks and got out.  No, this stop wasn't it either.  But we were close. 


After going to a store to pick up a couple of things, we walked a few more blocks and, voila, we had finally arrived.  Our one hour trip had taken about three hours.  But we were feted guests, plied with food and tea and more food throughout our visit.

Postscript:  A daughter in Casablanca had no key and was going to be locked out of the house when she got off from work.  Two of us (one being me, of course) had to get back to Casablanca and were unable to spend the night.  So we reversed the process. With good connections we managed the trip in 2 hours, well in time to meet the daughter whose waitressing shift ended at midnight. Although sadly,  in our haste, we didn't get to ride in a horse-drawn carriage on the way back.

 

Eid al-Fitr in Marrakech

Ramadan, the month of fasting, ends at sunset.  The Eid (eed), or celebration, begins at night.  I bring a gift of decorative holiday cookies to my downstairs neighbors.  With cookies and orange soda, we wish each other  Eid Mabrook, blessings of the holiday.

The time for fajr, the morning prayers, runs from about 4:30-6:00.  That is the time the sky begins to lighten, but ends as the sun actually comes up over the horizon.  At 6:00 loudspeakers from the street are urging everyone out of their homes with "Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar...".

By 7:00 a wide boulevard is packed with people for 2 long city blocks. They cover over the dividing islands and cross each side of the street.  Lines of parked cars completely and effectively block each end of the site. People fill every inch from curb to curb, sidewalk to sidewalk. One block is for the men, one block is for the women. I see a few policemen scattered about. They are not needed for this celebratory prayer.

There are thousands of people here. Ten thousand? Twenty? When I stand directly in the middle of the street and look straight ahead, I cannot spot the imam out of all of this crowd. To my right, the sun is bright white and still low, just clear of the rooftops.  There is a breeze; the air is still cool.  It is only about 80 degrees.  That feels cool, because later on, the forecast is predicting a high of 110. 

Woven plastic matting has been unrolled in the streets.  On top of that, people place their prayer mats and sit on the ground.  Those who have some physical difficulty bring stools or chairs.   For the latecomers, the places on the matting are taken.  No matter.  They lay their prayer rugs directly on the ground to sit on and then to stand on to pray. The rugs always touch or overlap as the Muslims will stand to pray not singly, but as a unit--touching shoulder to shoulder and toe to toe.

In the midst of these thousands of people, two friends come up to me out of the crowd.  A moment later, I spot a 3rd friend over to my left.  I introduce each to the other.

In the normal Friday congregational prayer, there is always first the khutbah, or sermon, then the prayer.  For eid, the order is reversed.  The loudspeakers, strung from light poles along the street so that all can hear,
have stopped the chant and the voice of the imam, who remains invisible in the distance to me throughout, begins the prayer.

By 8:00 the family downstairs has received it's first holiday visitors--nephews, sister, cousins. We eat cookies, drink coffee.  We share soup and a traditional square bread layered, pastry-like and fried.

I go upstairs again.  It's geting hot, and I go online to check the weather.  At 8:30, it's 91 degrees. 

Eid Mabrook, from Marrakech.

Taxis in Morocco

There are 2 types of cab in Morocco.  One is the Big Taxi (teksi kabeer).
It takes assorted individuals going in roughly the same direction and charges them all separately, all the same price. There is no meter.  You will not be dropped at the door.  You will be let off on the corner, around the block from, or a block away from your destination, so that the cab driver can take the best route for the next passenger.  

If  you are travelling as one large group or need to carry large items or luggage, you can be sure to get some deluxe (high) price that you will have to agree to at the outset. You may be able to negotiate a bit, but you are at a disadvantage.  You need to get somewhere, the driver doesn't.

The big taxis are usually some version of Mercedes Benz, or they are occasionally a variety of very small minivan.  The Mercedes drivers take that whole "6 passenger"  idea to heart, as they firmly believe they can fit in 6 passengers, not including the driver.  So 2 passengers  get to sit on one seat in front next to the gear shift box, and 4 more are squished into the back.

At the Big Taxi stands, you may find guys who work as cab fillers.  I don't know what they're called, but when you approach the stand, they will ask where you're going and direct you to whichever cab at the stand is headed in your direction.  You then get to sit and wait till the cab fills (and you're squished) before leaving.

If for some reason your taxi is not full at the start of the trip, don't worry.  The cabbie is always on the lookout for people along the way going his direction.  He will pick them up, so you can get squished then.

You  may think, "well, at least it's a Mercedes". Think again.  The window in the back may or may not open.  There is no air conditioning, or heat for that matter.  Get the picture?

The other type of cab is the small taxi (teksi sa-reer),  These have meters.  They will drop you at the door --that usually costs more--or take you to the nearest taxi stand and you can walk from there.  The small taxi's have a strict 3-passenger limit.  Babies and small children are counted, even if you keep them on your lap.

Families or friends often have to split up, flag down 2 taxis, and regroup at their destination. Of course, finding 2 taxis when you need them means it may take a while for all of you to get where you're going.  And, yes, if there are only one or two of you in the cab, the driver will stop for additional passenger(s) along the way.

There is no central company office that will dispatch a cab to your house when you call.  I had one driver tell me that he would come when I call, but he would immediately start the meter when I called him.

I live about a mile from the closest taxi stand.
  
Taxi! Yo, taxi!

Ramadan Prayers in Morocco

Muslims do not believe that acknowledgement of their prophet will get them into paradise.  Unlike some Christians for whom belief in Jesus and baptism is enough to get them into heaven, or Catholics who can seek expiation for their sins from their priests, Muslims believe that every one of us will be judged individually and that each person has to ask forgiveness directly from our Creator. 

Ramadan is a  special time each year when through fasting and prayer, we can seek atonement, forgiveness, blessings and mercy. There are extended, optional prayers every night at the mosque.  Thousands of people gather for at each mosque all over Morocco for 90 minutes or so for these prayers.

With the call to Isha, the last obligatory prayer of the day after the sun has set, there is a Quranic recitation abt 10 or 15 minutes long as people gather in and outside the mosque. Once the recitation ends, the imam leds isha, the night prayer that has 4 rakats.  Each rakat is a complete cycle of standing, bowing and prostrating.  Standing again is the beginning of the next rakat.

Then the imam leads 8 rakats of taraweh, the special prayers that can only  be  made during the nights of  Ramadan each year.  Finally, some imams leads  2  rakats of  the  witr prayer. Many people pray a single witr rakat on their own before leaving the mosque. Other imams pray a 3rd rakat and include in it the qunut--the part formulaic and part spontaneous pleading while standing end of the witr prayer--lasts about 5 or 10 minutes.

It's hard to guage the time while in prayer, but the experience is truly powerful. Regardless of our level of understanding the Arabic, it is almost impossible to not feel the meaning during the qunut: to hear a grown man's voice break in his plea for Allah's forgiveness and His Mercy, to hear people around you crying softly; to see that you are among the thousands people at just that one mosque who have come voluntarily out of fear for their souls; to know that you are surrounded by people who are crying for mercy and forgiveness.
  
During the last 10 days of Ramadan  there are additional late night prayers in the Moroccan mosques. These are another 10 rakats of taraweh prayer that end with a long pleading for forgiveness, mercy, and blessings for ourselves; for our families; and for the less fortunate.  These prayers last another 90 minutes or so, and finish just in time for people to go home and eat before the start of another day of fasting.

The fast of Ramadan can be taxing, and those who are physically unable are allowed to either make the days up later or in other ways.  But the taraweh prayers are open to anyone who can make it out of the house.  People come walking and in wheelchairs.  Those who are not able to stand for long periods or have difficulty prostrating bring stools, camp chairs, folding chairs and lawn chairs.  Some just stay seated on their prayer rugs.

Some people are able to go to the mosque every night. Some only as their schedule permits. Some make their prayers in their homes.Some do not make them at all.  Those who do make the extra prayers during Ramadan find immense spiritual benefits that only come once a year.

A Bus to Casablanca

There was a 5:30 a.m. taxi ride to the bus which was parked outside of the  bus driver's house.  As his first customers, the family and I had our pick of seats and sat right up front.  It turns out the driver is a friend of the brother-in-law of a daughter-in-law of the family.  Isn't it always not what you know, but who you know?

After 30 minutes and 2 more customers, we left.  For the downtown bus terminal.  Another 45 minutes passed as we waited for the bus to fill.  And those prime front seats we had?  We were told apologetically to move back 4 rows.  The impenetrable Arabic explanation left the reason why a mystery to me.  In any case, the bus to Casablanca finally got underway.

In the Morrocan Arabic dialect, there are at least a couple of words for bus.  The please-get-me-to-work-on-time bus is called a toe-bis (not making this up).  The city-to-city variety is called a car (still not making this up).  I guess it's the same in America, where the lowly form of  bus transportation tries to elevate itself by use of the word "coach".

If you travel by style in a car, make sure you take a look to see if there are windows all around the back of it.  Know what that means?  No bathroom. Very common. On the 3 hour trip to Casablanca, it's a good time to heed mom's advice, "You should of gone before you went".

The Uselessness of Ice Cubes

Wikipedia photo

My new refrigerator came with a plastic tray for little teeny ice cubes.  I mean teeny.  You could fill the individual spaces with an eye dropper. I asked a friend to bring some ice cube trays on her visit to Morocco. I shouldn't have bothered.

Ice cubes are useless in drinks when it's 107 degrees. By the time you drop the ice in your water and go from the kitchen to the living room, your cup has already self-combusted.

Here is what to do instead:

1. Reuse your plastic water bottles or wash out and recyle your 2-liter soda bottles.  
2. Fill all of them about 2/3 full with water and toss into the freezer. 
3. When completely frozen, remove and add water on top. 

The frozen bottle of ice lasts much longer than a few measley ice cubes, no matter their size.

Just something I learned here in Marrakech.

The Doors

Moroccans have a unique sense of style when it comes to doors for their homes or businesses.

The scrollwork at the top of this Moroccan door is echoed in the painting at the bottom.

The grillwork on this Moroccan door is broken up by blue stone at the middle and bottom.

Businesses with their heavy, 10 foot steel doors are also receive a decorative treatment.  Few places are left unadorned.  Plain, solid-colored doors are the exception rather than the rule in Marrakech.

The black and beige steel doors in Marrakech are separated by a green and gray tile pattern.

5 Things You Need on a Trip to Morocco

If you are thinking about visiting Morocco, here are some things you may want to bring with you:

1. A French-English dictionary. If you don't already speak Arabic, and don't have the time to devote to learning it, a bit of French will be quite useful. French is also the language of all things medical, in case you get sick.

2. Hair care products for black hair. Yes, you are in Africa, but you are in Berber country. If you are going no further south than, say Marrakech, you will find most of the Moroccans are of Berber or Arab descent. Plan accordingly.

4. Deoderant for sensitive skin.  Anti-perspirants are plentiful.  If you can't wear these pore-clogging products, you should bring your preferred brand with you.  I haven't seen plain deoderants of any brand here.

3. Thick-soled walking shoes, sneakers or sandals. The sidewalks are often gravel-strewn from all the new construction around (in Marrakech, at least). Ballet flats or thin-soled sandals are uncomfortable when doing a lot of walking.

4. Hand sanitizer. For times soap and water are not readily available.

5. You may, to put it delicately, need a clue.

4 Ways to Beat the Heat in Marrakech

We are in the middle of our first heat wave of the summer.  It is currently 102.  Tomorrow it's supposed to be 107. The forecast is for 9 straight days of triple-digit weather.  It is just May.  Here are some tips based on my observation of the locals:

1.  Leave town.  Marrakech is inland and unrelentingly hot. Locals find a host of long lost relatives and friends who live somewhere on  the coast (read: near a beach)  to visit during the summer. Don't bother giving your aunt the line about how much you suddenly missed her.  You come every summer.  She's already expecting you.  (If you don't know anyone in places like Tangier or Agadir, you can always rent a house in a tourist town like Essaouria).

2.  Psyche yourself out.  There seems to be a widespread perception that temperatures that reach only up into the 80's are cold.  All breezes are also cold.  Almost everyone is still wrapped in at least 2 layers of clothing during such weather. Their parents start dressing them this way as babies. So don't put away those jackets or winter undershirts yet.

3.  Turn off that a/c or fan.  What happens when you go outside after lounging around  in that artificially-cooled environment?  You sweat buckets from the shock of the sudden change in temperature, that's what.  You will actually sweat less if  allow your body to acclimate itself to the heat. Although I doubt this was on your to-do list of New Year's resolutions (and don't get heatstroke/heat exhaustion while trying this out).

4. If all else fails, you can always put on a movie, relax or take a nap  until the sun goes down.  What else could I recommend but Casablanca?

Life on the Edge

In Morocco extended families are the norm.  Most people contribute time, money, childcare, senior care, what ever is needed for the family unit to run as smoothly as possible.  Life moves somewhat more seamlessly from one decade to the next. I'm not romanticising it; I'm just suggesting that in extended family life, the transition between decades may not be so angst-ridden as it is for many Americans.

In just a little while my friend will slip into her next decade, the 60's, and she has very mixed feelings about it.  The way she looks at it, the teens, 20's and 30's are cool.  The 40's are depressing, marking the beginning of that Big Downhill Slide.  The 50's are cool though, as she achieved the ineffable cache of being "a woman of a certain age".

But now, facing the big 6-0, life feels different.  If this part of  her life were a film, then in it she has been standing for some time on the edge of a cliff.  Now without any segue, she's hanging by her fingernails.

According to Islamic tradition, many Muslims die at the age of 63, with Allah sparing them the infirmities of old age.  According to the shorter, lunar Islamic calendar she's already passed 60 and is nearer to that chronological milestone  (on this point we both hope that Allah goes by the calendar of the country of birth).  She doesn't feel ready to face her end.  As she put it, " I feel like I have to give Allah a 30-minute Powerpoint presentation of my life, and I'm still working on slide #4".

I tried to console her:  just as 13 and 14 are beginner-teen years, the  60's are simply beginner-old age.  She didn't appreciate my observation, though. Go figure.

The support of the extended family in Morocco eases the passage of life from one decade to the next.  I pray that my being here means that when it's time for me to let go of that cliff edge, I will have a soft landing.























',,

Washing Blankets in Morocco

Blankets drying on a rooftop clothesline

Washing blankets in Morocco doesn't mean just tossing them in the washing machine or taking them to the laundromat. The washing machines are generally too small for the heavy, plush blankets.  Laundromats haven't caught on either. So this is how you do it:

1.  Get a nice, sturdy plastic tub that is about half as tall and about twice as wide as a laundry basket. 
2.  Take the blankets and tub to the roof.
3.  Fill the tub with soap and water. 
4.  Slip off your sandles,
5.  Wash your blankets (one at a time)  I Love Lucy style.

 

I tried it and just like Lucy, the splash between my toes put a smile on my face (no fighting though).

A Tantrum Put to Good Use

Who knew a 2 year old could be so useful at passport control?  I was waiting in a line to get my passport stamped and re-enter Morocco when I heard something that sounded like a wild animal, but which turned out to be a little girl. Her dad periodically picked her up, moved up in line, then put her back on the floor. Her mom and dad were in the short line designated for diplomats.

While this was going on, I noticed two things.  First, my line was moving slower than all the rest.  Of course. The woman checking passports in the line I was in managed to find some problem with every single entry form presented to her. Really?  Every single one?  Cue 2 year old with a new round of screams.

The second thing I noticed was a Moroccan official on the phone. His job was to check the passport stamps before allowing travelers out of the area and into the airport proper. He got off the phone and left his post.  You know where this is going, right?  He got the girl's mom and dad out of line. 

The dad took the little girl through the door and into the baggage claim area. Where he put her back on the floor. The mom waited for a couple of minutes as the official got their passports stamped.  Now, yes, it could be this had something to do with their diplomatic connection, but everyone is chuckling (and relieved) at this little scene.

Meanwhile, I was still stuck in the slow line, wondering if anyone else had a two year old that I could borrow for a few minutes.

So You Want to Marry a Morrocan

If you are American and you want to marry a Moroccan, it is going to take time, money, and probably a lawyer to help you get through the labyrinth of paperwork. While you're watching your time and your money go bye-bye, you can share information, get support and vent frustrations on VisaJourney. VisaJourney is a site for and by Americans trying to wend their way through immigration regulations for marriage and other family situations.

A Henna Party

Henna parties usually preceed engagements and weddings 

Henna is a traditional decoration for brides-to-be.  Henna parties are often held for engagement parties and weddings. This group of family and friends came to have henna applied early in the day before an engagement party that evening.

The hostess provides a light meal beforehand.  Every woman will be immobile for 2 or 3 hours while the henna is applied and while it dries.

Some women had henna applied around their wrists like bracelets.  Others had henna applied to a single hand.  Most had henna applied to their feet as well.

Glitter applied to the wet henna makes it sparkle. Alas, the glitter comes off when the henna does in a couple of hours. The design beneath will last on the skin for at least a couple of weeks.

More on Busses

When you want to get on a bus in Marrakech, you can use a couple of techniques that are socially acceptable and may get you on a crowded bus and possibly a seat. I have seen or used them  myself numerous times.

People often crowd the doors instead of lining up and boarding single file. For this situation, you need a defensive move.  As soon as you are close enough, feel free to use what I call the "door block techique"  where you reach past  as many people as you can who are boarding the bus ahead of you. With an arm now extended to either or both doors, you can block people from getting ahead of you from the sides (this is my favorite).

Sometimes the bus is so crowded that people are standing on the front steps.  Don't despair of getting to your destination.  You can reach on and pay the driver at the front of the bus and then climb aboard through the back door.  Of course, the back is probably equally crowded, so feel free to Twister your way on board.

Once your on board, if you're a woman of a certain age, a man of advanced age, enormously pregnant, holding a small child, or have an obvious physical disability, then you are entitled to go on the offense.  You can ask a someone to relinquish their seat to you.  Most people will.

On the Street Where You Live

Behind any given street in Marrakech, where you might expect to find back doors and alleyways, you may find instead a warren of homes and walkways.  I'm not sure how these off-street streets are designated for, say, the post office. 

Their existence does explain why taxi drivers navigate by landmarks rather than by addresses.  Of course, the foreigner who, proudly showing off her faux-Arabic with a freshly memorized destination, may be suddenly at a total loss when it comes to knowing what is considered a landmark in the area. Not that that has ever happened to me.

Nat King Cole, probably best known now for his song "Unforgettable",  might never have recorded this other classic tune had  Lerner and Loewe  lived in Marrakech.  "On the street where...behind the other street...where you make that left...."  It just doesn't sound the same.

Home Improvement

The owner of my apartment decided she wanted to add decorative trim to the outside of the interior building windows overlooking her courtyard.  Sounds nice. she's chosen brown and white ceramic tiles in an alternating diamond and triangle pattern.  Looks nice. 


The way it gets applied is that the tile guy has to first climb a ladder outside the building in order to hammer and chisle off the existing stucco. Then he taps and cements the tile to the cinderblock underneath. So what he does is this: hammer, hammer, hammer. Bang, bang, bang. Tap, tap, bang, hammer. For hours and forever every single day. Starting way too early in the morning. 

Pity the poor non-morning persons. And the mom of the 2-month old downstairs. And the rest of us, as all of this hammering, banging and tapping is a 100% guaranteed headache-maker.

Since his ladder won't reach the third floor, he's had to come inside my apartment to do my windows. Most of my windows are open, but some in the living room and kitchen have actually been removed for better access to the outside and to avoid damage. My washing machine is sitting in the middle of my kitchen floor. I can hear him now moving my stove off further to the side.

When the tile guy was working on the second floor, the baby downstairs took his naps in my aparment.  Now I'm hanging out and eating with the family downstairs.

There are a couple of differences as to the way work is done in Morocco. The tile guy takes breaks to go to the mosque for prayer. The homeowner provides him with a big home-cooked meal everyday. I am leaving fruit, juice and water on the table for him to eat as he pleases. Since he is now working inside my apartment, I have to treat him as a guest.

The Importance of Blankets

Moroccan homes are stocked with huge numbers of blankets. Until my first winter here, I didn't fully appreciate why that is. I never really thought much about blankets.  I take them out during cold weather, and I put them away when it's warm.  Blankets last for years on end.  I rarely have occasion to buy a new one.  I always kept just enough for family and maybe a couple of guests. Then I came to Marrakech.

Marrakech homes, public buildings, even hospitals may be unheated.  It never snows here. The temperature never goes below freezing, although it gets uncomfortably close.  Understandably, blankets are everywhere.  Got visitors?  Give them blankets and hot tea when they enter your home.  Going to be a patient in the hospital?  Take your own blankets, just to be on the safe side.

Once I was one of a group of female guests in a home, and we were settled for the night side by side on pallet several blankets thick.  We were covered with a couple of individual blankets each, and then the our entire group was covered by the single largest blanket I have ever seen. It measured a good 15 feet across.  We were less likely to be cold than we were to be crushed under the weight of it.

I have seen coarse, heavy blankets substitute for rugs on a cold floor.  I've seen soft, plush blankets folded and stacked as high as the homeowner.  I've seen them stored in closets and beneath sofa cushions. Don't know what to give a bride and groom?  Blankets are probably the most common wedding gift in Morocco. The lowly, utilitarian blanket in America has here an importance borne of necessity.

Alternatives to Speaking Arabic in Morocco

If you are thinking about visiting Morocco, there are alternatives if you don't already speak Arabic, and don't have the time to devote to learning it.  French is your best bet. Many children start learning to read and write both Arabic and French from the time they  are enrolled in (paid) pre-schools at the age of 3 or 4.

Because most of Morocco was a French protectorate for about 40 years in the first half of the 20th century, French remains the language of the university and of business. If you get sick while in Morocco, you will discover that French is also the language of all things medical.

English was only introduced into the schools in 2002.  So English is still a distant second to French.

If you are going to the Mediterrean coast of Morocco, that area of the country was under Spanish rule for a time.  Knowing some Spanish could help you there. 

You can try learning some Berber as well.  Moroccan people are mostly of Berber or Berber/Arab descent.  There are several major dialects, so be sure to pick the right dialect for the region in which you will be travelling.

A Small Adobe House

A while back, I had the opportunity to visit an adobe home here in Marrakech.  The house was tiny, 4 rooms in about 400 square feet.  The was a bed room, a kitchen, and 2 salons. The rooms were spotlessly clean.The interior walls were all pale yellow.  In the bedroom there was a double bed shared by the parents  and a nine month old baby girl.  There was  an enormous, 3  door wardrobe.  The family's clothes were folded neatly inside of it, with suitcases and boxes stacked on top.

The other 3  children, a pre-school girl and elementary school-age son and daughter shared the 2 salons at night. The salons each had sectional sofas and tables for entertaining and dining. The sofas were covered in a  beautiful beige fabric with tiny lavender and yellow flowers. Carved scrollwork embellished the archway separating the two salons. 

The larger salon had a tv and opened into the kitchen. The kitchen had cabinets, a stove, refrigerator  and sink. A flower arrangement filled the display space above the kitchen doorway.

The  front  yard, another 100 square feet or so, was enclosed by a fence roughly 9 feet high. The dirt in the yard is constantly swept clean. This was a multipurpose area also. It was a play area for the children.  Clotheslines hung from side to side.   A walled off area immediately outside of and to the right of the front door  was the outhouse. Another  section of the yard  near an outer wall was partially closed off as an additonal storage and clothes washing area.

Outside of the  house and across the dirt road was a municipal tap that supplied clean  water for that house and its neighbors.

This family does not have a lot of money, but the parents and children are literate and well fed.  Their home is not an indicator of dire poverty; it reflects the housing standard of most Moroccans little more than a generation ago. As well as owning a modern cinderblock townhouse, working class families in the city live in either modern apartments or these older adobe homes.

 My companions  and I were there for a brief time, just long enough for coffee and doughnuts.  It was a little disappointing; the mom is an excellent cook, and her dinners are always memorable.

The WC or Life's Little Necessities

1. The "necessary room" in Morocco is most often just that.  A place for life's little necessites and nothing else.You will be hard-pressed to find a spa-bath among the common folk. My bathroom is so tiny you can easily see wall to wall here.
2. A word of advice:  if you are travelling and want or need a Western (sitting) toilet, ask in advance about the accommodations.  Squat toilets  are the norm in Morocco. Here is a little advice on what they are and how to use them--I'm not kidding, although I wish I were.
3. Finally, showers are pretty much universal. Bathtubs are rare. 

Darth, Is That You?

One of the great joys and blessings of living in a Muslim country is hearing the call to prayer, the adhan, 5 times a day. There are some mornings when, tired and sleepy, I admit that the pre-dawn call to fajr is not so enthusiastically received. But one morning was different.

One morning I awoke.  I listened,  and I smiled.

There was a substitute for the regular muezzin who always makes the call to prayer. On one single morning,  it sounded as if Darth Vader was calling me to worship Allah.  How could I refuse? 

No Crystal Stairway to Heaven

The beautiful tile staircase where I live

Stairs like these are common. They are quite lovely.  They are also steep and long.  Moroccan architecture isn't always big on conveniently spaced landings.  

I have to go up 2 of these to get to my apartment.

This is not a crystal stair, nor is it the stairway to heaven.  But if you're coming to Morocco, you can leave your StairMaster behind.

The Ultimate Multi-Purpose Room

The living room in Morocco is an entertaining, dining and sleeping space.

The salon in a Moroccan home is the ultimate multi-purpose room.  It is a living room/dining room/guest room/kids bedroom. As a living room, family and friends gather hereto talk or relax.  When it is time to eat, the low, sofa-height table turns this into the dining room.  When guests arrive for weddings and other such family events, the couches (and floor space) can  accomodate them.

The nesting tables provide places for extra dinner guests

The salon is also a kids' room.  Some homes have only one bedroom, the parent's room.  The babies sleep in the parent's room.  Older kids sleep on the couches at night and put the covers away in the morning. 

Often homes, even 1 bedroom homes,  will have 2 living rooms so that children or guests can be separated by gender.

Two Moroccan Marriage Proposals

Recently I was the recipient of  2 marriage proposals.  One was made jokingly by a 70+ year old grandfather with a wizened face and a twinkle in his eye. He suggested I pay him $4,000 American dollars for the privilege of marrying him and to support his hefty drinking habit (that was part of the joke-he doesn't drink).   In return, he would divorce his equally aged wife (a minor detail). I would get not only him, but also his donkey (bonus points).

There was also a suggestion by another family member that since I have the space, the grandfather could move in with me. The donkey could have my the spare bedrooom.  But I'll skip that part.

The second proposal went like this: if I give him the money I that I would spend anyway on a year's rent, I could marry a construction worker who lives in the countryside.   He earns about 80 dirhams or roughly $10.00 a day.  This little bit of money would allow for a diet of mostly bread and tea.

The first proposal was funny; the second one was just sad.  Both underscore the perception here that all Americans are rich. That perception makes it difficult to ascertain real motives when it comes to marriage proposals.

Marrakech City Bus Etiquette

If you are going to venture forth on a city bus in Marrakech, you have to be prepared.   I was surprised the first time I paid 3.50 dirhams, got a receipt and went through a turnstile inside the bus. The reason for this bit of formality is that inspectors randomly board busses and check every passenger receipt.  (They do occasionally catch people who have sneaked aboard through a backdoor, window, or the push of the crowd.)

Don't have a seat? You can sit on the steps, on the side, or even in the aisle.  You can lean on the doors.  You can put your arm out of the window.

If you get a seat and an older person asks you for it,  you are generally expected to give it to him or her.

Just so you know--the city busses, as opposed to tour or some of intercity busses, are not air-conditioned in summer or heated in winter.

The Strolling Donkey

Strolling Donkey, Part 1

I saw this donkey out for a walk in my neighborhood.  The owner was not in sight, and no one paid any attention to the solitary animal as he stopped to nibble on a small date palm tree and then moved on.

Strolling Donkey, Part 2

Several minutes later, the donkey was still strolling down the boulevard . 

Women Wedding Guests Prepare Their Clothes

Women do not generally travel in their takshitas.  If possible, they dress at the home of the bride just before the ceremony begins.

The female guests will arrive at your house with suitcases. While one bedroom is devoted to the bride and her 5 or 6 or 7 garment changes, the rest of your home, save the bathroom and kitchen, becomes one giant dressing room. The women get out of their travel clothes to get dressed and prepare for the wedding. Dresses, shoes, scarves, jewelry and make-up all come out of the bags. The women transform themselves and each other into sparkling showcases. Young and old, all of the women who may not even normally wear make-up, get dolled-up for the occasion.

A formal  dress worn to a Moroccan wedding is called a takshita (tak SHEET-ah). The older women are usually covered head-to-toe, but the younger women may wear newer styles of the takshita and appear bare-headed or with short sleeves or with dresses split to show skinny-legged pants underneath. But all of this is still modest by Western standards.  No one wears anything that is cut, as they say, up to here and down to there. But all of them come with strappy sandals and glittery dresses--sequined, shimmery, or embroidered with gold or silver threads.   And of course there is jewelry of gold, silver, pearl and all sorts of sparkling stones.

Once inside the wedding tent when the music starts, out of nowhere come the scarves that the women tie around their hips to better show off the moves of their dances.

The women and closely related male relatives gather inside the tent to sing, to dance, to eat, to view wedding gifts from the groom to the bride and to get photographed with the couple in any of the many bridal outfits worn during the ceremony by the bride and groom. Any non-related men have chairs and tables and are served outside.  Male waiters, photographers and entertainers don't count. Wedding logic. Go figure.

For families that want to have a sunnah wedding with male and female guests entertained separatedly, there are a couple of options. A high-end wedding may have two tents set up for males and females separately, but that typically doesn't happen because of the expense. More commonly, if the family maintains male-female separation, they may have a sunnah wedding in which all of the wedding proceedings take place in a female-only setting.  The men will have a banquet separately.

A Moroccan Grandmother



A Moroccan woman and her grandson



This is my favorite photo.