5 Things You Need on a Trip to Morocco

If you are thinking about visiting Morocco, here are some things you may want to bring with you:

1. A French-English dictionary. If you don't already speak Arabic, and don't have the time to devote to learning it, a bit of French will be quite useful. French is also the language of all things medical, in case you get sick.

2. Hair care products for black hair. Yes, you are in Africa, but you are in Berber country. If you are going no further south than, say Marrakech, you will find most of the Moroccans are of Berber or Arab descent. Plan accordingly.

4. Deoderant for sensitive skin.  Anti-perspirants are plentiful.  If you can't wear these pore-clogging products, you should bring your preferred brand with you.  I haven't seen plain deoderants of any brand here.

3. Thick-soled walking shoes, sneakers or sandals. The sidewalks are often gravel-strewn from all the new construction around (in Marrakech, at least). Ballet flats or thin-soled sandals are uncomfortable when doing a lot of walking.

4. Hand sanitizer. For times soap and water are not readily available.

5. You may, to put it delicately, need a clue.

4 Ways to Beat the Heat in Marrakech

We are in the middle of our first heat wave of the summer.  It is currently 102.  Tomorrow it's supposed to be 107. The forecast is for 9 straight days of triple-digit weather.  It is just May.  Here are some tips based on my observation of the locals:

1.  Leave town.  Marrakech is inland and unrelentingly hot. Locals find a host of long lost relatives and friends who live somewhere on  the coast (read: near a beach)  to visit during the summer. Don't bother giving your aunt the line about how much you suddenly missed her.  You come every summer.  She's already expecting you.  (If you don't know anyone in places like Tangier or Agadir, you can always rent a house in a tourist town like Essaouria).

2.  Psyche yourself out.  There seems to be a widespread perception that temperatures that reach only up into the 80's are cold.  All breezes are also cold.  Almost everyone is still wrapped in at least 2 layers of clothing during such weather. Their parents start dressing them this way as babies. So don't put away those jackets or winter undershirts yet.

3.  Turn off that a/c or fan.  What happens when you go outside after lounging around  in that artificially-cooled environment?  You sweat buckets from the shock of the sudden change in temperature, that's what.  You will actually sweat less if  allow your body to acclimate itself to the heat. Although I doubt this was on your to-do list of New Year's resolutions (and don't get heatstroke/heat exhaustion while trying this out).

4. If all else fails, you can always put on a movie, relax or take a nap  until the sun goes down.  What else could I recommend but Casablanca?

Life on the Edge

In Morocco extended families are the norm.  Most people contribute time, money, childcare, senior care, what ever is needed for the family unit to run as smoothly as possible.  Life moves somewhat more seamlessly from one decade to the next. I'm not romanticising it; I'm just suggesting that in extended family life, the transition between decades may not be so angst-ridden as it is for many Americans.

In just a little while my friend will slip into her next decade, the 60's, and she has very mixed feelings about it.  The way she looks at it, the teens, 20's and 30's are cool.  The 40's are depressing, marking the beginning of that Big Downhill Slide.  The 50's are cool though, as she achieved the ineffable cache of being "a woman of a certain age".

But now, facing the big 6-0, life feels different.  If this part of  her life were a film, then in it she has been standing for some time on the edge of a cliff.  Now without any segue, she's hanging by her fingernails.

According to Islamic tradition, many Muslims die at the age of 63, with Allah sparing them the infirmities of old age.  According to the shorter, lunar Islamic calendar she's already passed 60 and is nearer to that chronological milestone  (on this point we both hope that Allah goes by the calendar of the country of birth).  She doesn't feel ready to face her end.  As she put it, " I feel like I have to give Allah a 30-minute Powerpoint presentation of my life, and I'm still working on slide #4".

I tried to console her:  just as 13 and 14 are beginner-teen years, the  60's are simply beginner-old age.  She didn't appreciate my observation, though. Go figure.

The support of the extended family in Morocco eases the passage of life from one decade to the next.  I pray that my being here means that when it's time for me to let go of that cliff edge, I will have a soft landing.























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Washing Blankets in Morocco

Blankets drying on a rooftop clothesline

Washing blankets in Morocco doesn't mean just tossing them in the washing machine or taking them to the laundromat. The washing machines are generally too small for the heavy, plush blankets.  Laundromats haven't caught on either. So this is how you do it:

1.  Get a nice, sturdy plastic tub that is about half as tall and about twice as wide as a laundry basket. 
2.  Take the blankets and tub to the roof.
3.  Fill the tub with soap and water. 
4.  Slip off your sandles,
5.  Wash your blankets (one at a time)  I Love Lucy style.

 

I tried it and just like Lucy, the splash between my toes put a smile on my face (no fighting though).

A Tantrum Put to Good Use

Who knew a 2 year old could be so useful at passport control?  I was waiting in a line to get my passport stamped and re-enter Morocco when I heard something that sounded like a wild animal, but which turned out to be a little girl. Her dad periodically picked her up, moved up in line, then put her back on the floor. Her mom and dad were in the short line designated for diplomats.

While this was going on, I noticed two things.  First, my line was moving slower than all the rest.  Of course. The woman checking passports in the line I was in managed to find some problem with every single entry form presented to her. Really?  Every single one?  Cue 2 year old with a new round of screams.

The second thing I noticed was a Moroccan official on the phone. His job was to check the passport stamps before allowing travelers out of the area and into the airport proper. He got off the phone and left his post.  You know where this is going, right?  He got the girl's mom and dad out of line. 

The dad took the little girl through the door and into the baggage claim area. Where he put her back on the floor. The mom waited for a couple of minutes as the official got their passports stamped.  Now, yes, it could be this had something to do with their diplomatic connection, but everyone is chuckling (and relieved) at this little scene.

Meanwhile, I was still stuck in the slow line, wondering if anyone else had a two year old that I could borrow for a few minutes.

So You Want to Marry a Morrocan

If you are American and you want to marry a Moroccan, it is going to take time, money, and probably a lawyer to help you get through the labyrinth of paperwork. While you're watching your time and your money go bye-bye, you can share information, get support and vent frustrations on VisaJourney. VisaJourney is a site for and by Americans trying to wend their way through immigration regulations for marriage and other family situations.

A Henna Party

Henna parties usually preceed engagements and weddings 

Henna is a traditional decoration for brides-to-be.  Henna parties are often held for engagement parties and weddings. This group of family and friends came to have henna applied early in the day before an engagement party that evening.

The hostess provides a light meal beforehand.  Every woman will be immobile for 2 or 3 hours while the henna is applied and while it dries.

Some women had henna applied around their wrists like bracelets.  Others had henna applied to a single hand.  Most had henna applied to their feet as well.

Glitter applied to the wet henna makes it sparkle. Alas, the glitter comes off when the henna does in a couple of hours. The design beneath will last on the skin for at least a couple of weeks.